Winter vanilla skin scents
I was dreaming of a soft vanilla cloud that could become my skin scent for the winter . Here are three fragrances that I found fit this description : Dries Van Noten by Frederic Malle, which came out in 2013, Venenum by L’Artisan Parfumeur which is a recent release, and Cierge de Lune by Aedes de Venustas, which also came out in 2016.
Do you have vanilla fragrance cravings in the cooler months as well? I love a vanilla note in fragrances, but I have a very picky nose. I don’t like a boring vanilla. Here is my review of three different perfumes that have a few things in common. They are not too sweet and develop into lovely skin scents with a prominent vanilla note that is not boring.
Dries Van Noten by Frederic Malle
Eau de Parfum
Dries Van Noten by Frederic Malle was created by Bruno Jovanovic, and it is the first of Frederec Malle’s Perfume Portrait series. The next fragrance in this series will be a perfume portrait of Alber Elbaz, and will come out in 2017.
When I smell Dries Van Noten perfume I feel like I am entering a house that has all that I need for my comfort and well-being. I find this scent very reassuring and calming. I think of the color beige.
One of the main notes of the Dries Van Noten perfume is sandalwood. Actual Mysore sandalwood from a sustainable source was used to create this fragrance. Another prominent note is a spicy vanilla. In the heart there is: jasmine absolute, musc accord, saffron and patchouli. I don’t get patchouli out of, but I can pick up on the jasmine, saffron and clean musc. This perfume has a fresh, citrusy opening which gives an interesting contrast to the overall soft, sweet, and milky scent that it develops into. The scent reminds me of warm bread, or maybe pastry with almonds. It has a pleasant, dry and powdery tone.
Dries Van Noten by Frederic Malle definitely has a gourmand quality, but it is done in a modern and refined way. The projection is very minimal, even though it lasts for a long time.
Venenum – Natura Fabularis by L’Artisan Parfumeur
Eau de Parfum
Venenum is a perfume by L’Artisan Parfumeur from their recently released series – Natura Fabularis. These perfumes were created by Daphné Bugey who crafted fragrances such as Kenzo flower and Le Labo’s Rose 31, and many, many other perfumes. The packaging is amazing, and little gold bee on the bottle is such a pretty detail. These bottles mimic the old apothecary bottles, but of course you get a modern atomizer. All the fragrances in the Natura Fabularis line have a different color, and this color lightly tints the thick glass of the bottles. The number on the label of the Venenum bottle is 32, and it is actually the number of the trials it took to create this final fragrance. Here is what L’Artisan Parfumeur say about Venenum : “The blend of sandalwood scents, spices and rice notes instantly evokes an exotic landscape. A fascinating new world.”
I would say that it is the most exotic and spicy vanilla scent out of the three perfumes. It is the sweetest and quite powdery as well. The notes listed on Fragrantica are: bread, milk, black tea, spicy notes and sandalwood. Vanilla is not listed and I find that strange, because I get a vanilla scent from it. Ginger note is not listed either, although I smell a ginger note which mellows down, but prevails in the opening. The delicate spices and the tea note lead you to exotic destinations. Sandalwood is another important note in this fragrance. It is a comforting milky, spicy, powdery, sweet fragrance. It evokes a bread scent, but the bread scent in Frederic Malle’s Dries Van Noten is more naturalistic than in Venenum. I think it is a unisex fragrance, but I would put it more on the feminine side due to the sweetness, and the powdery quality. I enjoyed it very much. The longevity was ok, but not as good as Dries Van Noten which lasts far longer, or Cierge de Lune which is very long-lasting.
I loved two other Natura Fabularis fragrances and may do a post on them in the future.
Cierge de Lune by Aedes de Venustas
Eau de Parfum
The most alluring and mysterious vanilla fragrance is Cierge de Lune by Aedes de Venustas. Fabrice Pellegrin is the nose behind this perfume. His creations include Diptyque’s Do Son and Eau Duelle, which is another spicy de sweetened vanilla fragrance that could have been part of this list. Cierge de Lune was inspired by cereus, a flower of a cactus that blooms once a year, during the night. It was poetically named cierge de lune “moon altar candle” by the French.
I tried it after I bought Dries Van Noten. Even though I still probably would have chosen Dries Van Noten, I am swooning over this fragrance. At first glance (sniff) it doesn’t smell like anything spectacular. It is actually a quiet fragrance.
It starts out with a soft cooling effect, then evolves into a warm spicy floral (ylang) vanilla scent, retaining some freshness. The vanilla is minimally sweet, but present. It is an incense and amber based perfume with a soft leathery note. I love its subtly powdery quality in the dry down. Cierge de Lune is a velvety kind of vanilla fragrance with a lot of charm. It wore even closer to the skin than the Dries Van Noten.
I think that all of these perfumes are unisex. Venenum is leaning more feminine, and Cierge de Lune could be very nice on a man actually.