The first time that I have smelled perfumes in the Section d’Or Collection, I was impressed by the refinement of these fragrances. I think that if you love Serge Lutens perfumes, then you may find the compositions of Section d’Or perfumes very compelling. What makes Serge Lutens perfumes special in a marketed perfume world is a personal ‘narrative’ and the intent to represent a true art form with perfume. I think that Section d’Or perfumes are particularly philosophical and artful.
Sometimes you watch a good movie and you really enjoy it, but not more than a week goes by and you forget it. While other times you will watch a film that will stay with you for very long, and you keep replaying the scenes in your mind. I could make an analogy with other art forms, but the point is that I find some perfumes more than just pleasant. There is something about Section d’Or perfumes that makes me want to revisit and re-discover them.
Perfumes in the Section d’Or Collection are sold at premium prices. Their individual price varies depending on the ingredients of the composition.
In the fragrance community people often try to determine if price of a perfume seems to correspond to the quality of the ingredients, the ‘unique factor’ of the composition, and how long-lasting it is. It seems to be the way that perfume reviews are going – ‘dissecting the technical specs’ and judging the value in that regard. On one hand I understand this perspective from a consumer’s point of view. On the other hand, I think that we sometimes forget about the magic of perfumes. Fragrances have a message, and they can affect us on a emotional level.
Section d’Or perfumes are like poems to me. I love Serge Lutens perfume creations, but when I smelled the perfumes from the Section d’Or collection for the first time, I decided to come back and dedicate a day to smelling only these fragrances. As a ‘perfumista’ you may know that feeling when you are really ‘hooked’. I knew that it was the case for me with more than one fragrance from this Collection.
General information and presentation:
I have asked the sales assistant at the Palais Royal boutique whether Section d’Or perfumes were created by Serge Lutens in collaboration with the perfumer Christopher Sheldrake like most Serge Lutens perfumes, and she has confirmed it. They are parfum concentration fragrances, and come in completely opaque black glass 50 ml flacons. There is an enclosed sprayer inside the box. The box was placed inside an origami-inspired packaging that was folded by the sales assistant. This outside box has another box inside it. The last box containing the flacon has a layer of textured Japanese black silk over it.
Featuring Serge Lutens makeup in this post. Scroll down to the bottom to to find out more.
BOURREAU DES FLEURS
The Executioner of Flowers
Like most Section d’Or perfumes, Bureau des Fleurs is an unique fragrance with an unusual name. Among other perfumes in this collection, Bourreau des Fleurs is particularly difficult to describe scent-wise and to find a reference for in the perfume world. Many niche fragrances are rather linear which is wonderful if you really like the scent, yet it is very exiting to find a multi dimensional perfume with a long evolution on the skin. Bourreau des Fleurs is that kind of perfume.
When I first smelled the blotter strip and then I tried it on my skin, I got two different impressions because it changes a lot. At first I thought there was a touch of tingly spice in the opening, possibly pepper. There is also a somewhat sweet, dry fruit scent which made me think of plum at first. As it settles I relate the slight sweetness to licorice. There is a warm deep spiciness, which may be such notes as cardamom, cloves, or cinnamon. It becomes more dense as it evolves, and a woody accord seems to come forth. This resinous-woody scent is slightly burned, although the texture of this fragrance is smooth like a lacquered wooden surface. There is speculation on whether there is a note of immortelle in this perfume. According to official information on the perfume there are no flowers in the composition of Bourreau des Fleurs.
On the day that I bought Bourreau des Fleurs, I put it on before I went bed, and my pillows retained the fragrance for three nights. I was sleeping very well, too ) It is long-lasting and very powerful. I have to be careful not to overspray it. One day I went to the Serge Lutens boutique and the lovely sales assistant who I interact with the most, has immediately noticed that I was wearing it. Bourreau des Fleurs has become my favorite Serge Lutens perfume today. It doesn’t smell like any other Serge Lutens perfume, but it has a Serge Lutens signature. It is the latest release in the Section d’Or Collection.
Although the inspiration for this perfume is dark, as it relates to the complexity of the relationship between the executioner and the woman who is about to be executed, I find it very poetic.
Constrictive Fox (?)
Sorry, I am not sure how to translate this one.
Renard Constrictor is an exquisite pine fragrance. It is edgy and sweet. I personally associate this perfume with a shiny metallic surface, and beautiful white flowers, as and there seems to be floral note in the background. It is one of the perfumes in the collection that has a color. The color of the perfume itself is reddish pink. The opening of the fragrance is quite bold, but in the development it becomes more soft, musky and a touch powdery. As it mellows down I have an impression that a violet note emerges. I don’t find Renard Constrictor as long-lasting and powerful as Bourreau des Fleurs and Veilleur de Nuit, but I think that it is a wonderful fragrance if you want to make an elegant impression and appear well put together. I would call Renard Constrictor a ‘serious, classy fragrance’.
VEILLEUR DE NUIT
A lot of men will stay away from tuberose-based fragrances. I think that it is a pity because the scent of tuberose flower has power and an assertive quality. If associated with femininity, I am more likely to envision a ‘femme fatale’. Veilleur de Nuit is a dark-chocolate and tuberose fragrance, that has somewhat of a masculine edge in my opinion. This fragrance has a dark blue color, so you have to be careful not to stain light color clothes. For ‘purists’ who apply perfume only to the skin, it should not be a problem. The inspiration behind this perfume is Serge Lutens having sleepless nights. He works during the night when most people sleep.
Veilleur de Nuit is a perfume with a ‘split personality’. On one hand there is the bold scent of tuberose and the chocolate is a dark kind of chocolate. On the other hand, there is a comforting and enveloping quality to it which becomes more pronounced as the fragrance develops on the skin. Veilleur de Nuit has animalic notes of castoreum and civet that are well blended and add warmth to composition. I have become more picky with perfumes that contain the notes of civet and castoreum, but I love animalic notes particularly in Serge Lutens perfumes. In Veilleur de Nuit they add density, and support the night theme.
I really love Veilleur de Nuit, and I went through a lot of hesitation, choosing between Veilleur de Nuit and Renard Constrictor. I think that it captures the spirit of the night beautifully. It reminds me of Van Gogh’s night sky painting ‘The Starry Night’. In my opinion Veilleur de Nuit is a ‘handsome perfume with a touch of insolence’. It is a statement fragrance that is likely to get you noticed.
NEW MATTE LIP COLOR – L’ÉTOFFE DU MAT M2
There are two new color additions to the Serge Lutens lipstick range. Both of them are cool tone reds. M2 is the brighter shade of red of the two new lipsticks. The other one is a darker, wine red.
L’étoffe du mat colors have no sparkle particles. In comparison to other popular ‘classic red’ lipsticks M2 is closer in color to Nars Dragon Girl than MAC’s Ruby Woo since it has a slight raspberry undertone. The pigment is very intense and the color is a luminous, gorgeous red. It is also a beautiful color when worn as a stain, for a ‘bitten lip’ effect.
It is the tiniest and most expensive lipstick that I own. I love the rhombic cut of the bullet which allows a lot of precision. These lipsticks have a metallic casing, and all the colors are available in a recharge format which is less expensive than when you first buy the lipstick with the casing.
I want to do a closer look at the lip colors in the Serge Lutens makeup range, including the colors of the nude color lip palette that I love. Stay tuned for more on my Instagram page.